Lee Valley's new small bevel up smoother

Lee Valley has recently introduced a new #3-sized version of their bevel up smoothing plane. When I use a metal smoothing plane I reach for a #3 Stanley or my eBay special $60 infill smoother but having a new option is always appreciated. For you hand-tool beginners, premium smoothing planes are a great way to get started with hand work and this one looks like a relatively low-cost way to get one.

All the standard bevel up features are on this little guy: 12 degree bed angle with a 25 degree bevel on the iron, accessory blades with alternate bed angles, adjustable mouth.  The square sides make it ideal for use on a shooting board, althought its smaller size and lighter weight might make it more suitable for shooting smaller pieces.

I'm always on the lookout for a new smoothing plane option and, being a big fan of the #3 size plane, I'll be placing my order for this plane very soon. At $179, how can you go wrong?

Buy the bevel up smoother from Lee Valley here.

Class warfare, furniture style...

I'm a product oriented guy.  I don't get hung up with cutting dovetails or about having a chisel that is honed to 15,000 grit and will shave your eyeballs with just a slight look in the direction of the cutting edge.  But, I do get a little sentimental  about the simple, every-day furniture of the past.  And I do take great pleasure in reading the posts of other similar-minded folks, such as this post by Robin Wood.

For example, on a recent trip to the East Coast, I visited the Philadelphia Museum of Art.  Of course, I was impressed with the large scale, high end casework, tall clocks, etc., but what really got me were the simple objects.  The painted chests that still bore the date of a past marriage.  The pine chest of drawers with the turned ball feet in front, one of which had a very prominent, unrepaired shrinkage crack.  Simple turned bowls and utensils.

These pieces witnessed it all and survive to tell the tale. The dings and scratches that come with real age makes it easy to imagine the historical setting in which the past owners of these pieces lived and died.  This is something I find next to impossible with the "tour de force" pieces applauded by antique dealers and reproduced ad nauseum by woodworkers. Many have an air of sterility about them, as if they have never lived outside of a museum setting. 

The study of high-end furniture is an interesting work area for some woodworkers.  But for me, with rare exception, I'm more interested in the simple pieces, things I might have owned had I been born in the 1680s rather than the 1980s.  I'm sure I'm not the only person who feels this way.  Or maybe I am... but I'm ok with that.

Getting back in the shop

Greetings from dreary and rainy Mid-Michigan.  I've been out of my woodshop the entire summer, instead spending my time restoring a 1973 Plymouth Satellite that belonged to my recently-departed father.  She's basically done now (is a classic car ever really done?), so I'm itching to get back into the den of ankle-deep shavings that I call my shop.  In addition to working on the car, I spent some time demonstrating historic sash making at the Michigan State University Folk Festival and the MWTCA meet at Tillers International, where it looks like I will be teaching a window-making class next year.

The decision I have to make now is what project to build for my return to the shop. Despite recognizing my own need to finish the car my dad started, my wife is after me for a few things, especially for me to finish that Wallace Nutting table from my last post.  Remember when I said it would be quick? Four months later, it sits atop my Roubo waiting patiently for a top and milk paint.  Since I do enjoy being married, finishing this table will have to be my first priority.

After that, who knows? I recently obtained a very interesting book, Early American Country Furniture by Denis Hambucken.  In addition to being well written and extremely well-illustrated, there are several projects that I would like to build, especially a chest of drawers and a washstand. One reason I like this book is that it gives "suggested" dimensions, not a hard-and-fast cut list.  This works well with my style of woodworking.  Does the plan call for a 14" wide case but you only have a 12" wide board? No problem, modify the design slightly and use what you have without worrying about modifying a cutlist.  Make the pieces to fit and you never have a problem.

I'd also like to work on a reproduction of Chief Justice John Marshall's desk, from a plan by Carlyle Lynch.  Further back on the burner is the high chest by John Head which I was inspired to build after a recent visit to Philadelphia.  That will likely wait, however, until my wife and I move back to the country next year.

So, expect more frequent updates and some pictures of great projects.

Best,

Zach

A Wallace Nutting tavern table

After completing the commissioned beds and giving the shop a thorough cleaning (ankle deep shavings are no fun to work in, very slick), I'm going to work on a quick project for my wife before beginning the work on my John Head high chest.  She is going to set up a fish tank for our cat's entertainment and decided that I have to make her a small table for it.

I was given "qualified carte blanche" as far as design, so in other words I can make what I choose as long as she doesn't hate it.  My choice is a tavern table that was featured in Wallace Nutting's Furniture of the Pilgrim Century.  You can download this classic reference for free from Google Books here.  Page 431 features a neat little maple tavern table with scalloped apron and fine turned legs.

Excuse the poor scan, but you get the idea

According to Nutting's book, the height of this circa 1690 - 1720 table is 24 1/2 inches, the top is 16 inches by 25 inches.  Using these numbers, I can develop the composition of the piece.  I figure the frame is about 20 inches wide.  Using the classic "Golden Ratio", which is a common way to determine width to depth in classic furniture, I come up with a depth of approximately 12 1/2 inches.  This fits nicely with the defined width of the top, allowing for a good amount of overhang on the front and back.

Despite the knob on the front, there is no drawer.  Nutting says the knob is original but I'm seriously debating leaving it off.  I find it odd, but I guess it gives a focal point on the front skirt.  Any thoughts?

I plan to use some nice old growth pine that I've been able to salvage from old barns and I'm seriously contemplating giving it a milk paint finish.  Should be a fairly quick project but a worthwhile one.

Zach

Recently completed commission

My friend Lee Richmond of The Best Things commissioned me to make two beds for his home, a twin in cherry and a queen in walnut.  I've been busily working on these pieces since the end of March and they were finally delivered the end of last week. 

Here are some photos of the twin in cherry. 

 The walnut bed didn't photograph well, perhaps it was too dark.  The only difference in the design, other than the width, is the number of slats in the footboard and headboard. The cherry bed has nine; the walnut thirteen.

After a much-needed brief vacation in Philadelphia and a couple of days in Gettysburg, I'm back home and ready to get to work in the shop again.  A stop at the Philadelphia Art Museum has inspired me for my next personal project, a copy of the 1726 high chest built by joiner John Head.  Should be a doozie!

My best,

Zach

A new table

It's been a terribly busy few weeks, working on commissions.  I've just completed this reclaimed barnwood table, what I call a rustic Stickley-inspired tabourette.  I've never done rustic furniture but I think is a neat look.

Worm holes, stains and rough texture. A big departure for me!

The beautiful elm top

Roughsawn poplar stretchers, as found from the barn, except with linseed oil

Rough texture left by my hewing hatchet

The wood was provided by 2nd Chance Hardwoods in Corunna, MI, which is also where this table will be for sale.  It has an elm top, white oak legs and roughsawn poplar for the stretchers.  The legs were split with my froe and then hewed to approximately 1 1/2" square.  I left the hewing marks rather than smooth the pieces.  I hand-mortised the legs to receive the tenon stretchers, then drawbored them with walnut pegs.   Finish is linseed oil thinned with turpentine and 3 coats of amber paste wax.

I think it turned out quite nicely.  Let me know what you think!

Best,

Zach

A recently completed project

This Craftsman-inspired hall table was a gift for a very discerning client... my wife!

This table was inspired by the Craftsman aesthetic but is an original design. All work was done by hand with hand saws and hand planes, including a half set of hollows and rounds for the moldings and a Scottish infill for overall smoothing duties.

Woods used are quarter-sawn white oak, air-dried black walnut and white cedar as a secondary wood. Drawers were made with half-blind dovetails. Finish is boiled linseed oil and amber paste wax. Dimensions are 46" wide, 13" deep and 30" tall.

More projects are coming, including pictures of my latest window sash frame.

My best,

Zach

Now offering sash windows made by hand.

Friends,

This is just a quick note to share a happy moment. I've started a part time small business, Eaton County Joinery, focused on making custom and reproduction sash windows entirely by hand.  I've used the information in The Woodwright's Guide: Working Wood with Wedge and Edge and The Woodwright's Companion: Exploring Traditional Woodcraft as well as other sources to research the historical method.  My windows are ripped, crosscut, mortised and molded entirely by hand, with no power equipment touching the boards in the construction process. If any of you need barn sash or any other type of reproduction sash, please feel free to email me at zacharydillinger@gmail.com or call me at 517-231-3374. I'm happy to ship anywhere.

Also, I've reprinted copies of Peter Nicholson's Carpenter and Joiner's Assistant. Published in 1797, this book is an incredible resource for historical restoration, design and architecture.  It also discusses the roof systems used in numerous famous buildings.  If you are a timber frame and building structure geek like me, you'll love it.  The book is 8.5" by 11" and 167 pages, including numerous plates of designs, moldings, window systems, doors and other architectural details.  Click here to order and to get more information.

Best,

Zach

The Kekionga Living History Trade Fair

Friends,

I was just informed of a very cool trade fair that is coming up next weekend, February 12th and 13th.  The Kekionga Living History Trade Fair is being held at the Allen County Fairgrounds in Fort Wayne, IN.  I will be driving down, as its only about an hour from my house.  I'm excited to see what they have for sale.

You can find more information at: http://www.visitfortwayne.com/events.aspx/kekionga-living-history-trade-fair

Spoon carving

On Saturday, I took a spoon carving class at Tillers International in Scotts, MI.  The teacher, Paul Rutgers, is a professional spoon carver and decoy maker.  It was a thrill to learn from such an accomplishing craftsman.

In my research, I found this extremely interesting YouTube video of a gentleman making a spoon by splitting down a log.  I may have to try this.  Enjoy!

Spear and Jackson paring chisel

I won this 7/8" wide Spear and Jackson paring chisel on eBay and it just arrived.

.  It is 3/16" thick at the top of the blade, 7 1/2" tip to the bolster and has an oak handle.

The Spear and Jackson logo, complete with crown, is in clear and readable shape, as is the cast steel logo.

I need to flatten the back, regrind and hone the bevel, then replace the cracked handle.  I'll make a traditional 18th century octagonal handle as I think this is the most comfortable style of handle.  I'll post pics when its done.

Zach

Book Review: Technology's Past

I was going through an old box the other day. I was excited to find my copy of Technology's Past by Dennis Karwatka, which I thought had been stolen.  My grandfather was the technical editor for FDM Magazine and was always challenging me to read more, think clearer and problem-solve better.  To that end, for my birthday in 1998, he gave me this book. 

Technology's Past: America's Industrial Revolution and the People Who Delivered the Goods

The book tells the story of American inventors who identified problems, created solutions and marketed them to the public.  With a wide variety of subjects, from Ben Franklin to Ole Evinrude, Leroy Starrett to Henry Ford, you will find biographical information and details of their problem solving genius.  There are also special sections that discuss the history of Computers, Television, Manned Space Flight and Robotics.  Anyone who is interested in old technology, old patents or inventions will greatly enjoy this book. 

My grandfather passed away in 2001 but reading this book again reminded me of spending time in his shop figuring out how to fix problems, sharpening tools or building projects.  I highly encourage anyone who visits this site to read it, I guarantee you won't be sorry you did.


Zach

Ambidextrous woodworkers?

Gentle readers,

After a crazy bout of work-related travel and the Holidays, I'm back to my shop and the web.  I have a question for you all.  I'm an ambidextrous woodworker, meaning that I saw left handed but use planes right handed.  I wondered if there were any others like me.  If so, how do you deal with work holding? Do you set your bench up to accommodate your plane hand? Do you have more than one vise? I have only a leg vise on the left leg on my Roubo.  I was thinking about trying the vise on the right leg, just to see what it is like. 

Zach